Fast facts
State: Maharashtra
Distance: 265 km SE of Mumbai, via Pune
When to go:
Tourist Office: MTDC, Mahad Naka, Mahabaleshwar
Tel: 02168-260318, 261318
STD code: 02168
Getting there
Air: Closest airport is Pune
Rail: Closest railhead is Pune
Road: There are two routes from Mumbai to Panchgani – one down NH4, via Pune, Surul and Wai, and the other down NH17, via Poladpur. The latter is more scenic.
If you’re looking for an action-packed weekend somewhere glamorous, don’t bother with Panchgani. On the other hand, if all you want to do is get away from the maddening world, chill, drink some beer, go for quiet walks and believe in the journey being the destination, head straight there.
Panchgani is a small, quiet town with a feel of the good old days. Charming old Colonial cottages dot the hill station. More than three dozen boarding schools contribute to its lifestyle and atmosphere. The engaging sight of chirpy school kids out on an evening walk takes you right back to Enid Blyton’s Mallory Towers. It also puts you in the perfect mood to hire bicycles and ride through town, discover by-lanes and indulge in a little innocent fun.
People will tell you that the best time to visit Panchgani is from October to April when it is at its coolest. But many people like it best during the monsoons when the mist lends a surreal touch to the beautiful scenery. There’s still something glorious about getting soaked to the skin, or sitting in your hotel room and watching the rain drench the pretty landscape.
Things to see and do
Panchgani derives its name from the five hills that surround it, literally meaning ‘plateau with five hills’.
There isn’t a lot to see in Panchgani, but there is a lot to do. It involves walking, ambling by chappal shops or just sitting and watching the world go by, indulging in local specialities such as the big trademark channa, or chomping on bhuttas spiced just right.
Driving Around
There is really nothing much to do in this laid-back place, other than driving around to explore the region. One of the nicest drives is to Tableland, Panchgani’s crowning glory. A vast, flat plateau, Tableland stretches far beyond what the eye can see and offers the most spectacular view of Panchgani’s pretty, colourful rooftops against the hilly backdrop. During peak season there is plenty of fun for children up here in the form of a Ferris wheel, a toy train, pony and horse rides and many games stalls. You can also drive to Parsi Point for what is perhaps the best view around – Krishna Valley down below. Another great drive is to Wai, a historical town 14 km away, where you can wander around the village or go boating at Dhom Dam.
You could also carry on to the nearby hotspot, Mahabaleshwar, 19 km away on a well-maintained road, for a delicious Gujarati thali at one of the many popular lodges there.
Rajpuri Caves
Off the beaten track are the Rajpuri Caves, 6 km from town. Of the four caves here, one has a temple of Lord Karthikeya, son of Shiva.
Sherbaug
Sherbaug is a botanical delight with a huge cacti collection, just beyond the checkpost. There is a garden, a restaurant and a processed food outlet. There is a municipal garden that has seen better days, but the children’s park behind it offers swings and slides.
Panchgani’s Goodies
The pulse of Panchgani is the bazaar, full of quaint shops that are certain to catch your fancy. If you happen to be there mid-week, you’ll catch the Wednesday market, or Budh-ka-Bazaar, when villagers from around the area sell local produce at rock-bottom prices. Every-thing from organically grown fruits and vegetables to pots and pans and, yes, even chicken, finds its way into this typical village market. It is worth visiting just to witness the sheer colour, gaiety and cheerful confusion of a bazaar.
Where to stay
There are lots of lovely options that suit the mood of Panchgani – homely, warm and comfy.
Hotel Ravine (Tel: 02168-241060-62; Tariff: INR 1,900-10,400; ravinehotel.com), strategically located on an edge near Sydney Point on Panchgani-Wai Road with an over-hanging tennis court, is recommended particularly for couples. Their Melting Pot restaurant serves Chinese, tandoori and South Indian.
Il Palazzo Hotel (Tel: 241300-02; Tariff: INR 2,600-10,000 per person, with meals; ilpalazzo.co.in) is a beautiful, old, sprawling English-style bungalow and has a pool, a large garden and good Parsi food. Non-guests should call ahead for meals.
Prospect Hotel (Tel: 240263, 240763; Tariff: INR 6,000-7,000; www.prospect-hotel.com) is the first ever hotel built in Panchgani. Non-guests can make reservations to enjoy Parsi meals, apart from their regular fare.
If you’re travelling with children, Blue Country Resort (Tel: 241521-22; Tariff: INR 3,500-7,000; www.bluecountryresort.com), near Tableland, could be the ideal choice. It has a huge pool, a large play area where kids can enjoy and simple but good Gujarati food. They even maintain separate vegetarian and nonvegetarian kitchens. Other decent options include Hotel Mountcastle (Tel: 241307/ 09; Tariff: INR 3,000-6,000; www.hotelmountcastle.com) near Dhandegar Naka and Hotel Five Hills (Cell: 09960371919; Tariff: INR 900-4,000), which was earlier called Hotel Ten Hills, on Khingar Road.
Where to eat
Get the best patties and scones at the old-fashioned Roach Bakery (Tel: 240423) and keemapao at New Lucky Moon. Akbarally serves excellent paobhaji. Past the bazaar, on the way to Mahabaleshwar, is Mapro – they make lovely jams and marmalade, always a handy gift.
But make sure to have at least one meal at the stalls at Hirkani, on the roadside just before Mahabaleshwar.
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