I could tell the meal was an exact replica of what’s served 35,000 feet up in the air—the lack of freshness in the bread was testament enough. But the curry leaf fish appetiser was a lot more flavourful than anything I’ve had as standard in-flight khana. Over the privilege of a tasting session with the celebrated chef Sanjeev Kapoor, who’s part of Singapore Airlines’ international culinary panel, and whose signature the carrier’s Shahi Thali has borne delectably since 2006, I learnt about his ongoing efforts to work around the physics (or biology) of flying. His latest Shahi Thali is an effort to overcome the drying out and deadening of taste buds by the controlled air pressure of commercial passenger aircraft. He does this with improved presentation, new flatware, better-sized portions, and a considered fusion of north and south Indian flavours in the same meal, with a starter, two types of chutneys, up to four entrées (depending on class of travel), a pulao, and a choice of two Indian breads (a heavier, stuffed paratha, or a light phulka). I finished with the chef’s famous chocolate-chip kheer, which reconfirmed that chocolate works with everything, everywhere. Now I can’t wait to have that fish again, on board.





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