Nara Thach campsite seen through thick woods along the climb to Kobri Thach in the Tirthan river valley
A stiff uphill climb to the 4,200m Rakhondi ridge crossing leads into the Sainj valley and the serene expanse of the Dhel meadows. The forests rise steeply above the valley floor, making for steep inclines almost all along the trek. The path to the pass is narrow in places and clings precariously to a ledge with a steep fall of nearly 1,000m into the valley below. The unnamed pass itself is a lovely ridge line looking into the vast expanse of both the Tirthan and the Sainj valleys.
Among the many mysterious twists of the Dhel meadows are the lovely ridge-top Jogini sights that are revered as deities by local people. Marked by stone cairns and strung with prayer flags, these are a common sight.
Our camp at Dhel on day seven of the trek was perched on a steep ledge overlooking the Sainj river valley below. The morning felt even more surreal as clouds gathered, thick and strong. It left just the meadow exposed, giving the camp a feeling of being suspended in mid-air. The downhill walk to Bah in the Sainj valley can make your knees sing as some of us found out. Return to Neuli from Bah marked the end of the trek and also a somewhat rude return to civilisation as the river projects coming up on the Sainj side have pockmarked the valley with an overdose of construction. The park itself remains a pristine wilderness worth several visits.
A colourful beetle stands out against a patch of dry grass
A clump of ferns forms an eye-catching pattern
The vibrant Primula macrophylla brightens up the landscape
Primula reptans in bloom along the trail