Simple: book the log huts at GMVN’s Chilla Resort, located outside Rajaji National Park near Haridwar. The cottages are new, clean and set in a quiet riverside area (where some people complain of having little to do other than relax!). Accommodation here costs from ?4,500 (gmvn.gov.in). There is also a forest rest house in Chilla; enquire at the Park Director’s office in Dehradun (0135-2621669). Forest safaris (6-9am and 3-6pm) can be booked at the park’s Chilla gate.