It’s creditable that you want to escape the standard tourist trail when in Manali (and yes, do ignore Snow Point, it’s odious), because there’s much else to do in the Kullu Valley. But to enjoy your great offbeat Manali vacation, you should ideally do two things: hire a taxi for quick daily transport and extend your two days to at least four but preferably five days. The key to enjoying the Kullu Valley and Manali’s environs is to take it easy and let the place sink in. To start with, do head to the Hadimba Temple. I know you declined the charms of temples, but this 400-yearold beauty, set inside a deodhar grove, is absolutely worth it. On the way to the temple, do stop at the Il Forno restaurant (www.ilforno.co.in) for some delicious, authentic pizzas.

Next, cross the Malsu Nala and head over to Old Manali and see a traditional alpine village. There are some remarkable old houses made of wood and stone here, which can make the place seem like a world away from the concrete nightmare of modern Manali. Another wonderful ramble can be had at the old village of Vashisht, with its beautiful old houses. Beyond the village lies a small forest and then a lovely waterfall. Do make the hike.

The next day, head out in your hired car over to Naggar (21km) for the day. This hamlet used to be the old capital of Kullu some 500 years ago, and it preserves a sense of the valley’s famed beauty. Head over to the Roerich Museum (10am-5pm) and the Roerich Art Gallery and marvel at the vision and artistic genius of the Himalayan painter Nicholas Roerich. You get some great views of the Pir Panjal and Dhauladhar Ranges from here.

Another great place for views is the 16th-century Naggar Castle. It’s an HPTDC hotel today, and you could do worse than to stay here for a night (www.hptdc.nic.in). Or you could have a cup of tea, get some fabulous views of the Beas and head over to Raison village nearby. Far from the madding crowd, there are apple and plum orchards. High on a hill, in Nasogi village, lives a reclusive Swissman who makes notable cheeses. If you like rabbits, you could also stop over at the angora breeding farm. What do you do with your extra days? Well, if you’re an adrenaline junkie, go paragliding in the Solang Valley. Ski Himalayas (www.skihimalayas.net) runs a ropeway up the slope for the ski run. In summer, you can soar above the valley in a piloted paraglider.