Salban – A Wild Refuge

Some places have a rhythm of their own… Quiet, elemental, idyllic places, where the breeze and the birdsong, the angle of the sunlight and the rainbow colours on the plate, are each part of an incredible orchestra that changes its tune every season. Places, where jaded travellers can truly unwind…

As you leave the paved road and turn towards the Baiga village of Bandha Tola, the gate of Salban, The Kanha Homestay, comes into view. By the time you reach the courtyard, Sheema and Jhampan Mookherjee, a former publisher and conservationist couple who opened the doors to their home a few years ago, are ready to welcome you into their tranquil world. The openness and the spaciousness of the homestay, and its earthy façade, instantly draw you in.

As Salban shares its border with the core area of the Kanha Tiger Reserve, it offers the best of both worlds… You’re never too far from the wild intensity of a dense Central Indian forest or a hot cup of tea and the sweet hug of a homely environment. Adding to the charm is a sprawling Mahua tree right in front of the main cottage. The cottage, built in the local style with slanted, tiled roofs and a roomy verandah, looks like a traditional Baiga house from a distance; the only difference is in scale.

When the weather is favourable, Salban also serves freshly made homecooked meals under its majestic Mahua tree – a simple, yet incredibly relaxing experience. With rare, hyperlocal, nutrient-rich ingredients sourced from their own farm or local farmers, and gifted homecooks who can elevate the humblest ingredients like Kodo millet into a gourmet meal, it’s one of the most memorable farm-to-table experiences in the region.

The main cottage at Salban has two rooms for guests, while there are two more rooms adjacent to each other in a separate cottage on the other side of the Mahua tree. They are connected by a small pool and a pond.

Nature is both the chief host and chief guest at Salban. So, your early dinner with delicious Kodo millet fried ‘rice’, roast chicken and a refreshing salad prepared with fresh produce from the farm, may be accompanied by clear skies and the song of cicadas, or a spell of heavy rain and rolling mists. Either way, you’re never too far from a surprise at Salban. Even when you turn in for the night, a goodnight message — tongue firmly in cheek — could remind you to expect the unexpected in the wild… “Do call us if you see a tiger at night!”

How to get there: Salban is close to the Mukki Gate at Kanha, so the closest airports are Raipur or Nagpur, and the closest railway station is Gondia junction. The hosts arrange for taxis for pick up and drop.
Best time to visit: Certified under the homestay scheme of Madhya Pradesh Tourism, the best time to visit is October to March.
Address: Village Baherakhar, PO Nikkum (Malajkhand), District Balaghat.
Contact: +91-6268843290, 6267384787
Email: [email protected]

The countryside in Madhya Pradesh has a gentler rhythm and offers many beautiful agri-tourism and farmstay experiences. Here are a few more to consider:

A warm cottage on a two-acre organic farm, Sattva Farmstay is located just outside Bhopal. It offers a unique open-air theatre experience too.
How to get there: Sattva is en route to Kerwa Dam from Bhopal, which has the closest airport and railway station.
Address: Sattva Farmstay, H. No. 59, Kerwa Dam Road, Khudagaj, Central Semen Centre, Bhopal.
Contact: + 91-9479660944;
Facebook page: https://www. facebook.com/sattvafarmstay

Hosted by the Jamnia Royal Family, Rawla Kaneriya offers activities, such as farm tours, picnics, and lunches under tree canopies, as well as opportunities for hikes, nature walks, workshops and more.
How to get there: The closest airport or railway station to Rawla Kaneriya is Indore, approximately 40km away.
Address: Bagdi-Manpur Road, Dhar.
Contact: +91-9425740106
Website: https://agriculturetourism.wixsite.com/rawlakaneriya

One of the three villages in India nominated for the UNWTO’s Best Tourism Village Award, Ladpura Khas (where Rekha Homestay is located), offers a chance to experience the quintessential country life and enjoy farm-to-fork meals.
How to get there: Gwalior airport and Orchha railway station are closest to the homestay.
Address: H.No. 265 Khasra (near Upper Middle School), Maharajpura Gram Panchayat, Orchha.
Contact: +91-6392071364

An ecologically diverse farm of one-and-a-half acres, which is focused on improving soil health and using indigenous seeds to grow 100% chemical-free food, Jeevantika Farm allows visitors to experience the joy of reconnecting with the land, and encourages them to embark on their own journey of sustainability and well-being.
How to get there:
From Ratlam (50 kms) – by local train, bus or taxi
From Ujjain (50 kms) – by a bus or taxi.
From Indore (90 kms) – by local train, bus or taxi.
Address: Jeevantika, Amla, Road, Barnagar, Madhya Pradesh. Contact: Email: [email protected] |
Facebook Page: https://m.facebook.com/jeevantika.forest

It’s an organic farm with four rooms on the outskirts of Bhopal.
How to get there: Bhopal is connected by train and air. It’s a short drive to Shambhala from there.
Address: Bhouri Jod, Near Campion School, Bhopal-Indore Highway, Bhouri Village, Bairagarh, Bhopal.
Contact: +91-7554073333
Email: [email protected]