Dense forests and rugged mountains, prehistoric rock shelters and urban jungles – Madhya Pradesh is home to a spectrum of natural landscapes. Experience the great outdoors on these walking trails across the state.
Day 1: Bhopal
Bhopal’s major green lung, Van Vihar National Park, is a welcome respite from the concrete of the city. Stretching along the bank of the Upper Lake, the zoo has the status of a national park. With wetland, water-bodies, and forested patches, herbivores like chital and nilgai are allowed to roam free, while carnivores like tigers and leopards are housed in enclosures. Perhaps the best thing about Van Vihar is the five kilometre, tree-lined road that runs through the park, making a great walking track in the midst of nature. Many locals come here for their morning or evening walk, when the air is filled with bird song. Home to injured and aged rescued animals, including snakes, hyenas, tortoises. Spend the night at your hotel in Bhopal.
Day 2: Bhopal – Bhimbetka
After breakfast at your hotel, head to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bhimbetka. These prehistoric rock shelters tucked into the Vindhya Hills hold medieval cave paintings and tell the story of the early humans who dwelled here thousands of years ago. Though Bhimbetka has over 200 rock shelters, 15 of these are open to the public, with a well-maintained trail winding through towering sandstone columns. Bhimbetka is located in the jungles of Ratapani, and the trail is lined with magnificent old trees. Walking here, through ancient forest and weathered rock, is a walk through history. Take in the well-preserved cave art, which focuses heavily on local wildlife and scenes of music and dance. Stop for lunch at the MP Tourism run Highway Treat before heading back to Bhopal for the night.
Day 3: Bhopal – Ratapani
Leave the city behind for the beautiful Ratapani Wildlife Sanctuary on the fringes of Bhopal. A thriving forest of teak and bamboo, the sanctuary is spread across 823 sq km of the Vindhya Hills. A wealth of wildlife inhabits the area, but Ratapani is also home to historic treasures like ancient rock-shelters and cave art sites. The Kathotiya Rock Shelters are one such little-known spot. From Kathotiya Village, home to the Bhil tribes, trek uphill through forest to arrive at caves, holding art that is estimated to date as far back as 10,000 years. Kathotiya is part of the ‘S-belt’ of rock art, named after the archaeologist Shankar Tiwari who discovered the site in 1975. Like in Bhimbetka, the rock art is painted in shades of natural reds and whites, but Kathotiya remains a largely unknown site. The Kathotiya Adventure Camp – an initiative managed by local tribal youth, leads the walk through ancient forest and stacks of weathered rock. After sundown, head back to the Ratapani Jungle Lodge for a lovely evening by the bonfire and a comfortable overnight stay.
Day 4: Ratapani – Satpura National Park
In the morning, depart for Satpura National Park to make it in time for the afternoon safari. Spread over 524 sq km and hemmed in by the Satpura hills and the Denwa River, Satpura is among India’s most unique national parks for the range of experiences it offers. Apart from the usual jeep safari, visitors can also opt for a boat safari or a walking safari. The thrill of walking in the core area of the forest, mere metres from the wild citizens that inhabit these parts, is unparalleled. The landscape varies from wide grasslands to rugged hills, dense teak and saaj forest to stacks of weathered rock. Seasonal streams and rivers like the Sonbhadra and Denwa wind through the land. Defined walking areas like Sonbhadra and Peelia in the national park offer an immersive wilderness experience, engaging the senses of sight, sound, smell, and touch. Learn about fascinating foliage like the ghost tree and Indian satin wood, observe the forest’s tiniest creatures, like an antlion dragging itself on sandy soil, and listen to your guides thrilling tales of the wild. Spend the night at the luxurious Reni Pani Jungle Lodge.
Day 5: Satpura National Park – Pachmarhi
Rise at dawn for a morning jeep safari in Satpura National Park. Cross the Tawa Reservoir by boat, and then board the jeep do drive in to the park, where the landscape varies from grassland to tightly packed teak and saaj forest, from steep uphill trails to curving riverside pathways. Watch out for tigers and wild dogs, sloth bear and monitor lizard, and look up to the branches to spot birdlife like raptors, drongos, and parakeets. Exit the park by 11am and get an early lunch before departing for Pachmarhi.
The quiet colonial-era hill station is known for its beautiful views and lovely walks. The sun sets early, so spend a relaxed evening at the lovely Greendale resort and gear up for an active day ahead.
Day 6: Pachmarhi
Located in the Satpura Tiger Reserve, Pachmarhi is full of wild, untouched spots hidden in the fold of mighty mountains. Apart from the many popular view points, visitors can take guided treks deep within the forest, to discover rare plants, trek rarely traversed trails and relax by mountain streams. Sangam or Fuller’s Pool is one such site; a steep downhill descent of around five kilometres leads around 600 feet down into a valley where three mountain streams converse. The trail to this ‘sangam’ or meeting of waters, winds through tricky terrain, where the mountains are cloaked in massive ferns and thick teak and sal forest. Walk through bamboo groves and see beautiful views of the sun painting the Satpura hills golden. Look up into the trees to spot Indian Giant Squirrels as they leap between the branches. The landscape is primeval, undisturbed, and leads to a most picturesque spot by the water. The mountains rise in sheer walls from this deep gorge, making it a perfect and scenic place to spend some time idling in the lap of nature.
The entire trek can take anywhere between four to five hours. After lunch at your hotel, explore Pachmarhi’s Prakrit store. The store stocks handloom silk weaves, but the acres of land behind the store are home to the Resham initiative. The silk seed production unit rears silkworms for their threads, and the land behind the store is carpeted in host plants – arjun, som, castor, and mulberry. Take a long, leisurely walk down the path that runs along this land, flanked with lush greenery on both sides, filled with butterflies and bird song. The ‘silk route’ is an easy walk suited to all abilities and age groups. After lunch, depart Pachmarhi and begin the journey home.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Van Vihar National Park, Bhopal
Timings: 7am-6pm
Fees: INR 250 per car (max 5 people)
Address: Krishna Nagar, Shymala Hills, Bhopal
Bhimbetka Rock Shelters
Timings: Sunrise – sunset
Entry Fees: INR 300 per car; INR 25 per person (on foot)
Ratapani Jungle Lodge, Ratapani
Address: Kolar Dam, Panchayat Veerpur Lawakadhi, Madhya Pradesh
Website: http://www.ratapani.com/
Tel: +91-9584551234
Tariff: Doubles start from 4000/-, inclusive of breakfast.
Satpura National Park
Seasons: The park is open from 1 October to June 30. From July to September, it remains closed for the monsoon.
Timings: 6.30am-11am; 4pm-6pm; All parks in Madhya Pradesh are closed on Wednesday afternoon.
Fees: Jeep safaris start at INR 4160 per vehicle (max 6 people), depending on the route you take. This includes entry permits to the park, the boat fee, vehicle and guide charges.
Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, Satpura National Park
Address: Reni Pani Village, Sohagpur, Madhya Pradesh
Website: www.renipanijunglelodge.com
Tel: +91-9981997714
Tariff: Doubles from 30,000/- inclusive of all meals
Greendale, Pachmarhi
Address: Jaistambh, Rajbhawan Road, Pachmarhi Cantt, Madhya Pradesh
Website: http://www.greendale.in/
Tel: 9584551234
Tariff: Doubles from 5,000/-, inclusive of breakfast.
Sangam Trek, Pachmarhi
For the Sangam trek, it is essential to obtain permission from the Forest Department and go with a guide. Organize your permit and guide from the Bison Lodge. The Forest Department permit costs INR 1100, and guide charges are around INR 400.
Prakrit, Pachmarhi
Timing: 11am – 7pm; Closed Monday
Address: Bee Fall Rd, Pachmarhi